Children’s Corner #241 Lucy takes on a sophisticated elegance made in black pique from Fabric Finders. It has an attached overlay of a black and white flowered Liberty of London edged with black gingham piping. The front overlay features a set-in strip of white pique with a black monogram. It’s a great way to use a smaller piece of Liberty or other special fabric when you don’t have enough to make an entire dress!
Keep reading for instructions on drafting the overlay and constructing the garment.
Redrafting for a Yoke Overlay:
1. Make a copy of top of Lucy dress front and back.
- Measure 2” to 3” below armhole on yoke front. Draw a perpendicular line across to center front.
- Measure up toward neckline 1 ¼” from this drawn line and draw another line parallel to it.
- Draw a soft curve from the higher line at Center Front to the lower line at side seam. Note! I like to keep this softly curved line the same distance from armhole curve at side for about 2” and this curve up into the upper line.
- Trace the same line on the back yoke, extending at side or Center Back as necessary.
- Trace the back overlay on another sheet of paper to make a pattern. Label it Back Overlay, Size__, Cut one on fold.
- Trace the front overlay on another sheet of paper.
- On the front overlay pattern, measure over ¾” from center front of pattern and draw a line parallel to Center Front.
- On a new piece of tissue paper redraw just the front yoke over to the line that is ¾” Center Front. Add a ¼” seam to line that was parallel to Center front. Label this piece Front Overlay, Size__, Cut 2. Place a grain line parallel to the center line.
- For Monogram Pattern piece draw a rectangle that the width of the 2” and depth of the front yoke. The grain line is drawn parallel with the depth of the rectangle.
- Trace Monogram pattern on white or white pique. Embroider monogram using 1” tall letters.
- Cut out the Monogram pattern in embroidered fabric.
- Cut out Lucy front and back, making each one 1” longer. Cut out front and back overlay. Cut out front and back linings, making each piece ¾” longer.
- With right sides together stitch monogrammed piece to each front side of front overlay. Press seams toward monogrammed piece.
- With right sides together stitch one side seam of outside (black fabric) of Lucy. Press seam open.
- With right sides together stitch same side seam of front and back overlay. Press seam open.
- Make corded piping and trim seam to ¼”. With right sides together and raw edges together stitch corded piping to bottom edge of front and back overlay.
- Turn seam allowance to wrong side and press, clipping curve if necessary.
- Place wrong side of overlay on top of right side of garment. Align all raw edges and match side seams. Stitch overlay to garment, stitching in the ditch of piping.
- Cut out garment behind the overlay at seam where corded piping is stitched.
- With right sides together stitch other side seam of the dress. Press seam open.
- With right sides together stitch each side seam of lining. Press seams open.
- Place dress and lining right sides together and align all raw edges at dress top and match side seam. Pin or baste in place.
- Stitch dress to lining around top. Trim seam. Turn to right side and press well.
- Turn under bottom edge of dress ¼” and press. Turn under again 1” and press. Hem. Press again.
- Turn under bottom edge of lining ½ and press. Turn under again ½” and press. Topstitch in place. Press again.
- Work buttonholes on dress front and sew buttons on back shoulder extensions.
Copyright 2011 Lezette Thomason