We extended the Jane sleeves to make this Liberty dress warm and cozy for fall. So many people have liked it that we decided to show everyone how to do it themselves! Follow the easy instructions below for extending the sleeve pattern. Directions for finishing the sleeve are below as well. Reminder: add 1/3 yard to fabric requirements.
Drafting the sleeve
1.) Trace short sleeve onto a piece of tissue paper. VERY IMPORTANT – MARK THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE SLEEVE!
2.) Extend the length of the sleeve so that the underarm seam is the following length:
1 9 7/8″
2 10 7/8″
3 12 1/8″
4 12 5/8″
5 13 5/8″
6 14 5/8″
3.) Connect the two underarm seams with a straight line. This is the fold line for the casing at the wrist. Mark the straight line 1” in from each end.
4.) To taper the sleeve, make a line from the top of the underarm seam to the mark you made on the fold line.
5.) To draw the casing, make a parallel line 3/4″ below the fold line.
6.) Fold the tissue paper up on the fold line, and trace the sides of the sleeve in the area between the fold and the casing line. This way, the casing will fit nicely inside the sleeve without causing puckering.
Final long sleeve pattern piece should look like the one below.
Sewing the Sleeve
1.) Fold under bottom edge of sleeve casing to wrong side 1/4” and press. Fold under again on casing fold line and press. Then unfold. Note! This step will make stitching the casing easier later.
2.) Follow pattern instructions for sewing sleeve into dress.
3.) Refold under bottom edge of sleeve 1/4” and press. Fold under again on foldline and press. This will be for casing. Topstitch 1/8” from bottom edge of casing. Stitch again 3/8” from first topstitching leaving a small opening at seam for putting in elastic.
4.) Cut 2 pieces of 1/4” wide elastic for size 1-3: 6-7”, 4-6: 8-9”.
It is always a good idea to measure your child’s wrist. Thread elastic through casing using a safety pin. Pull up elastic to desired length. Sew ends of elastic together, cutting off any excess. Topstitch opening closed in casing.